Sagalout,
Harrogate,
I could nearly wee to there, from here........
Yes can do, but I don't know what shims I'll have left after doing mine, I've not started the engine yet still doing fairing bits, very time consuming, I think mines gona take a couple of days, but then I know every bolt is copper eased should I ever need to undue any after riding in the rain.
Carb take off's for balancing, http://www.cradleykawasaki.co.uk/ £3.50+ each, you need 2. Part Number: 92150-1161(Bolt) I have a link pipe to join them afterwards.
I tried several of the places from that website and nobody had any. Also, a couple of the guys I spoke to doubted that the refill pack would be suitable.
Not for one minute doubting you, Yorkie - you're a 9R expert - I'm just passing on what I was told by the people selling these things. I wasn't able to get a pack anyway.
Last edited by Win9R on 17 Apr 2007, 21:22, edited 1 time in total.
I tried several of the places from that website and nobody had any. Also, a couple of the guys I spoke too doubted that the refill pack would be suitable.
Not for one minute doubting you, Yorkie - you're a 9R expert - I'm just passing on what I was told by the people selling these things. I wasn't able to get a pack anyway.
should of just said 'well yorkie said they will fit' the response would of been 'well if yorkie says they will fit, they will fit, but we aint got any anyway'
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Gold wrote:should of just said 'well yorkie said they will fit' the response would of been 'well if yorkie says they will fit, they will fit, but we aint got any anyway'
You're absolutely right. I'm convinced that those two geniuses know a damn sight more than the so-called 'experts' in the trade.
If you are here next week, you can have ANZAC biscuits with your tea.
And I have a very comfortable milk crate for you to sit on, while I pull fairings, rocker cover etc off.
Seriously, from a man that has done the odd few shim checks adjustments, do you see any trends? do all the exhaust valves tend to be out by a certain amount etc?
I will probably follow the manual when I do mine, is there anything the manual forgets to mention?
When you lift the cams clean the oil off the IN_ and EX_ marks and put white paint in to make the marks stand out. C's only have the marks on the out side, so really needs it done, E and F's have them on both sides, worth marking both. NOTE there are IN and EX makes on both cams just mark the appropiate ones.
When refitting the cams, lift the cam chain and roll the exhaust in till the mark is level with the head keeping the chain tight down the front of the engine down to the crank sprocket, now roll the inlet cam till you get the mark level with the head,with no slack between cams, (far end of cams may be raised, its the sprocket end we need seated at this point) now set the cam chain tensioner to 5 maybe 1 or 2 more depending on what it was when removed (leave it 2 clicks less at least from what it was when removed) just refit the tensioner and not the spring loader. You fit the tensioner to stop the cams from rolling on the slack in the chain as they press the valves open.
Now tighten down the cam bearing cover 1/4 to 1/2 a turn on each bolt in a spiral way from middle set to outer sets, you will be able to do this by hand until you finaly torque it down, ensure the cams are in a position not to foul ontop of the 2 dowels next to the plugs.
When the cam bearing is torqued down, refit the cam chain tensioner spring, then rotate the crank in a clock wise direction and listen for the cam chain tensioner taking up the slack in the chain by 2 or 3 clicks. Now you know it works. rotate the crank a couple of times.
This is how I do it, and I normally have no truoble as long as the crank markings are lined up correctly to start with. You don't have to count the links this way.