Ride height

[g-rex]

Torque suggested raising the ride height was a good thing to do and have found a suspension guide that reckons 10mm up from standard is good.
Anyone agree? And where am i measuring this from and to?

(I have found the adjuster by the way!)

rex

[Steve-TC1]

udo your top nut by 10mm then tighten the bottom nut

[g-rex]

Cheers for that. Only thing I'm not sure about now is whether it's already been done or not..
How high will it be set as standard?

rex

[sliderscraper]

Good question, g-rex. I;d liek to knwo that too. Wanna raise my rear ride height, but not sure on original height (not sure if it's been done already). My front end already feels a bit flighty (already had 2 weird tank slappers) but survived, just.

[Steve-TC1]

Don't know the answer to this ,is it not in the book [owners manual ]under the seat , if not std seat height is 810mm

[Gobert]

It's a while since I did this to my E1 but I seem to remember that the bike comes from the factory with the ride height at its lowest setting so you would adjust the gap between the upper shock bracket and the lower nut to 10mm. Because different people like different levels of stability its best to change things like ride height in small steps and ride the bike to see if you like the way it steers - easy enough job to either increase or decrease the changes depending on which direction you want to go. I run my F2 5mm up at the shock mount and 3mm down at the front.

BTW, check the lower ride height adjusting nut for cracks - Kawasaki changed the E2 and F models to a spacer because some nuts broke...

[daveonyx]

Call me stupid but... is it nut 1&2 which needs adjusting to alter the ride height?

i'm only a short arse, so would it be more to my benefit to lower the front? i'd have thought it better to lower the front due to ground clearance and centre of gravity. or am i a bit off the mark here?

[Mr.T]

i was told a spacer is what you need to raise the ride height?

[daveonyx]

heard that myself too, but i think it differs from model to model.

[Win9R]

Im not sure if Es are the same as Fs, but on my F I put some spacers on top of nut 2, underneath the structural alloy piece between nut 1 & nut 2.

[sliderscraper]

Daveonyx, did you ever get a reply?

Can anyone clarify the following?....

is it a cae of moving the nuts up the thread by 10mm?

Cheers
Slidey

[yorkie]

Yes move both nuts on the E1 upwards.
The E2 you will need washers or spacers, as the lower nut was removed because some broke and the shock just jumped up and down loosly.

[Harts]

The way I did it (E1):

1) Jack the back end up with a paddock stand under swing arm.
2) Put some axle stands under rider peg mounts (NB not the pegs themselves as they'll fold up in step 3).
3) Remove paddock stand allowing the pegs to sit on the axle stands. This takes the bike's weight off the swingarm / suspension.
4) Undo "Nut 1" until the required amount of thread is showing under the chassis mounting, the rear wheel will lower slightly as you do this.
5) "Undo" "Nut 2" from the top of the shock until it's tight against the chassis mounting.

Shouldn't make a lot of difference, but you might also want to double-check your chain slack and sag afterwards.

[g-rex]

Well if it's at the bottom as standard then mine's already been done. Had a couple of twitches from the front when accelerating hard on a bad surface, but nothing bad so will keep as it is for now.

Cheers

[sliderscraper]

g-rex, me too... had a few 'moments' under hard gas. Mine's only raised about 5mm, too. Steering damper-a-hoy!

Slidey