High mileage zx9's

[abacky]

Anyone out there got any high mileage zx9's, i would like to know what i can expect in the future years at present i have 37000 approx.
I have already replaced the radiator(due to close contact with a seagull),the front calipers and changed out the original master cylinder for a brembo (big differance),the wheel bearings twice thats just me they were ok,the swing arm because of corrosion along with the bearings,the fork seals and the clutch very soon and the rear shock.

[2face]

i am up to 32 000 but as it is fairly new most has been done for me ..
i have done the head bearings
new fork legs.
shims.

jobs to do ..

remove swinging arm and drill a grease nipple in it .. (cos on the B model they never fitted one .

[NinjaSi]

Mines only got 3000

I've done 800 in the last month since I've had it

[heavymetalninja900]

did you change head bearings yourself? and how hard is it.

or did a garage do it and how much did it set you back?

[cammy9r]

Got an E1 model with 35000 miles on it and riden in all weathers.
2nd set of head bearings
4th set of wheel bearings all round
new cush rubbers
calipers had to be overhauled, the shity salt took its toll from them.
About to be 3rd chain and sprockets
fork seals done once but now got zx12r USDs on it.
Radiator takes an awful beating from the elements so put some mesh over the front to stop stones and hail bashing it.

Mostly just general maintenance but it has done well considering the life it has had

[abacky]

The head bearings are quite easy to change you just have to be carefull when installing the new ones to make sure the outer races are fully home, it means removing the whole front end so getting it done in a garage would be expensive i would think.

[2face]

the hardest bit is suspending the fron to remove forks etc .. and whell but the job is easy .. just the strip down is a pain in the arse.
while it is stripped u might as well change the fork seals and oil. seems silly not to ..

[Steve-TC1]

Have seen a zx9rc1 on another site with 110,000 on it , some one from ausie [no gearbox probs during that time either ]


headbearings are easier than it first seems ,
1/
nip your top yoke and bars off , [just tie bars out of way]
2/
undo your front wheel, and front calipers, and brake pipe splitter bolts [dont take axle out just yet or remove brakes ]
3/
brick behind rear wheel and bike in gear
4/
side stand out , car jack under exhaust plate , lift front of bike
5/
remove front calipers from fork leg [tie hoses and calipers back out of way leaving hoses attached ]
6/
remove front wheel and axle
7/
undo headbearing adjustment nut while holding fork as both forks and bottom yoke will drop now
8/
remove black plastic cover from top bearing and remove top bearing [just lifts out]
9/
long drift /screwdriver, from top tap out bottom outer bearing [[tap at 12/3/6/9 oclock so it comes out straight ]
10/
same as no 8 but from underneath for top outer bearing
11/
remove bottom inner bearing from steering stem [may require bearing puller ]
12/
fit new bearing to steering stem , grease bearing both inside and out , slide down stem as far as poss, use a i foot long plus piece of pipe that fits over the steering stem and on to the outer edge of the new bearing tap into place [diffrent bearing from top bearing ]
13/
fit outer top and outer bottom bearings into frame [i use old outers bearings turned upside down then placed ontop of the new bearing to seat properly , small taps at 12/3/6/9 oclock untill fully seated ] a large socket that sits on the outer edges of the new bearing does this job well also
14/
push bottom yoke back up through steering stem , slide top inner bearing over[grease first], plus seal and plastic cap , and nut [nut=hand tight]
15/
add front wheel , brakes and reattach brake line splitter to bottom yoke [keep wheel in air]
16/
knock front wheel left/ right with one tap , tighten top yoke nut untill wheel no longer goes left right with one tap [28 ftlbs]
17/
undo top yoke adjuster nut a tad ntill wheel moves left /right freely
18/
replace top yoke and bars , recheck wheel movement left to right , check wires cables for chaffing /obstructing movement
19/
drop front back down and tighten whhel /calipers/and top yoke /bars fully

[abacky]

Just a small tip to make the replacment easier is to put the outer races of the bearings in the freezer for a few days before you install them and the job is much easier as the outer bearings reduce in size just enough to let them slip in with light tapping then they heat up in the normal temperature and job done.