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Kawasaki ZX-9R - Most underrated sportbike
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 09, 2019 2:05 am 
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The sealing point on the bleed nipple is where the convex tip of the nipple seats into the concave recess in the calliper casting............Only IF the thread were tapered BSPT or NPT would a cracked internal thread make a difference.

One tip when peep's are bleeding brakes is FIRST THING remove the bleed nipple make sure the bore is clear of debris and krust and make sure the seating point for the bleed nipple and the calliper casting is clean and has a smooth finish......Use a cotton bud to polish the recess in the calliper that the bleed nipple seals against.

I failed to check a bleed nipple bore once (zx7r rear callipers are absolute kunts to bleed even on a good day) anyway after an hour or so I decided the task was flawed and found that the bleed nipple bore was near to being completely blocked with road crud/debris/corrosion or whatever...the problem being I was not able to release brake fluid in sufficient quantity to bleed the feggin calliper without creating a near-reverse -vacuum on the tip of the nipple where you seat the tube for bleeding the bleeding feggin calliper !!!

Somewhere out there in google land are nitrile?? rubber seals for callipers, The difference being the ones I'm thinking of are GREEN in colour and have a better spec to the 'O' ring patent/copy black seals we usually get.....The OEM Kwacker seals are Dowty inc spec as in aviation/automotive/trains/ships,the green coloured O rings exceed the OEM specifications.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 10, 2019 1:08 am 
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Attachment:
ti (Medium).jpg
ti (Medium).jpg [ 152.81 KiB | Viewed 36 times ]

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 10, 2019 3:37 pm 
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obsidian wrote:
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ti (Medium).jpg


They look nice, where do I get them bitches from?

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 10, 2019 4:29 pm 
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as mentioned earlier, these were (afair) sold as brake rotor bolts.
that was some time ago.
should fit kawas just fine, but I think the listing was for an R1 or some other yam.
the shoulder on them also seems just the right height for mounting the rearsets,
at least the original ones.
couldnt ever bring myself replacing even the rustiest original ones with just some
plain allen bolts.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 10, 2019 4:48 pm 
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tangosevern wrote:
The sealing point on the bleed nipple is where the convex tip of the nipple seats into the concave recess in the calliper casting............Only IF the thread were tapered BSPT or NPT would a cracked internal thread make a difference.

One tip when peep's are bleeding brakes is FIRST THING remove the bleed nipple make sure the bore is clear of debris and krust and make sure the seating point for the bleed nipple and the calliper casting is clean and has a smooth finish......Use a cotton bud to polish the recess in the calliper that the bleed nipple seals against.

I failed to check a bleed nipple bore once (zx7r rear callipers are absolute kunts to bleed even on a good day) anyway after an hour or so I decided the task was flawed and found that the bleed nipple bore was near to being completely blocked with road crud/debris/corrosion or whatever...the problem being I was not able to release brake fluid in sufficient quantity to bleed the feggin calliper without creating a near-reverse -vacuum on the tip of the nipple where you seat the tube for bleeding the bleeding feggin calliper !!!

Somewhere out there in google land are nitrile?? rubber seals for callipers, The difference being the ones I'm thinking of are GREEN in colour and have a better spec to the 'O' ring patent/copy black seals we usually get.....The OEM Kwacker seals are Dowty inc spec as in aviation/automotive/trains/ships,the green coloured O rings exceed the OEM specifications.


I have been there in spades. Good tip on checking the sealing surface internally for crud or buildup. I’ll keep that in mind. I’ve previously been advised that Teflon taping the nipple threads first will greatly benefit.

Any thoughts on using a vacuum type bleeder on say those ZX7 rear calipers? I’m still attempting to master vacuum bleeding. Eventually, I vacuum bled my RSVR front brake master cylinder “so well” that the brakes actually seized up in 1 kilometer. Apparently, there was so little air in the system that there was no room for expansion and slight brake drag was enough to heat up the fluid enough (I guess?) to cause the front brake to seize and it did so abruptly from 100 kph! The solution was to take two clicks out of the lever free play. I’d had it set to engage as far out as possible. Then I rode anxiously for a few hundred miles suspecting it would lock up again and pitch me second time round. The problem never resurfaced.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 12, 2019 7:22 pm 
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The thing wouldn’t start this morning! Put it on reserve, fired up. So, went to fill the tank, took less than normal. Put it back on primary. Was ok. Set off for home, got a mile and it broke down! Put it on reserve and it started again.

Am I right in thinking my primary fuel filter will be blocked if there is one?

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 12, 2019 7:58 pm 
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There’s oftentimes a screen in the tank on top the Petcock. Not sure about this one. There’s also the main fuel filter under the carb bank. It’s possible your fuel main has blockage issues. If in question, you should be able to turn off the fuel and remove the fuel hose. Put another hose on there to a bottle and turn it on and run a good gallon out. If it gurgles there blockage. I’d think you could blow compressed air through the rubber hose you attached backwards through the petcock to clear any gunk that’s in there. You could also fully remove the petcock after draining the tank but I’d be concerned with proper seal on reassembly.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 12, 2019 8:24 pm 
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curvecrazy wrote:
There’s oftentimes a screen in the tank on top the Petcock. Not sure about this one. There’s also the main fuel filter under the carb bank. It’s possible your fuel main has blockage issues. If in question, you should be able to turn off the fuel and remove the fuel hose. Put another hose on there to a bottle and turn it on and run a good gallon out. If it gurgles there blockage. I’d think you could blow compressed air through the rubber hose you attached backwards through the petcock to clear any gunk that’s in there. You could also fully remove the petcock after draining the tank but I’d be concerned with proper seal on reassembly.


I had cleaned that filter out recently, but if that was still blocked, it wouldn’t run at all. As no fuel would get to the carbs whatsoever, hence thinking it’s the fuel filters in the tank. It’s my birthday tomorrow, and I haven’t got chance to do owt today, or tomorrow. Unless I do it on my lunch break. Blow all the filters out and hope for the best! Haha, I might be lucky and get a new filter for my birthday!! Haha

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 12, 2019 10:51 pm 
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Location: Blackfoot, ID: ZX-9R sE1*, E1, & sF1*; all CA EVAP models. * Supercruise capable
Good luck with both.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 13, 2019 9:51 am 
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A picture of the fuel tap and the ON stack pipe removed, it's just an interference fit, yours may be blocked up, or you may have a fuel pump power relay problem, rest a finger on the end of the fuel pump while the engine is running and feel for it knocking.
The earplug was just to blank off the fuel pipe to stop bugs from finding somewhere new to live. :lol:

Image

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Just got yourself a ZX-9R, then do yourself and your bike a favour, read this thread the sticky post in General Technical viewtopic.php?f=21&t=28097

Please will forum members put their bike model letter, & 1 or 2 after their Profile Location. eg: Your Town & B1,2,3,4 C1,2 E1,2 F1,2
As all zx9's are all slightly different, and I get fed up having to ask which model & number, as a year may not be accurate.
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 13, 2019 2:27 pm 
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yorkie wrote:
A picture of the fuel tap and the ON stack pipe removed, it's just an interference fit, yours may be blocked up, or you may have a fuel pump power relay problem, rest a finger on the end of the fuel pump while the engine is running and feel for it knocking.
The earplug was just to blank off the fuel pipe to stop bugs from finding somewhere new to live. :lol:

Image


Thanks for this, I do have a spare relay. But, I don’t think it’s that. It still gets fuel just on reserve. I have found a pet cock in good condition on the auction site! Just £15, so will try it with that and get a new filter whilst I’m under the tank. I will probably give the carbs another clean out, and check, just in case!!

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 14, 2019 1:13 am 
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Talltom87 wrote:
obsidian wrote:
Attachment:
ti (Medium).jpg


They look nice, where do I get them bitches from?

Aliexpress sell them and their having a sale at the moment November
Two variations on the bolts for M8's thread length and sholder length...I think the Gixxer ones have the shorter shoulder length but I don't know what your 9 uses...easy enough to glean the info from bike specific sales searches on ebay.

It's best to put some heat on the OEM rotor bolts that are already fitted to soften the Loctite..It's an even better idea to invest in a £50 240v impact gun and some case hardened 1/2 drive Allen sockets....You can loosen the drive sprocket & clutch hub nut on yer own with no messing >clarke £50 impact gun saves hiring a Gorila to lend a hand .

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 14, 2019 1:32 am 
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curvecrazy wrote:
tangosevern wrote:
The sealing point on the bleed nipple is where the convex tip of the nipple seats into the concave recess in the calliper casting............Only IF the thread were tapered BSPT or NPT would a cracked internal thread make a difference.

One tip when peep's are bleeding brakes is FIRST THING remove the bleed nipple make sure the bore is clear of debris and krust and make sure the seating point for the bleed nipple and the calliper casting is clean and has a smooth finish......Use a cotton bud to polish the recess in the calliper that the bleed nipple seals against.

I failed to check a bleed nipple bore once (zx7r rear callipers are absolute kunts to bleed even on a good day) anyway after an hour or so I decided the task was flawed and found that the bleed nipple bore was near to being completely blocked with road crud/debris/corrosion or whatever...the problem being I was not able to release brake fluid in sufficient quantity to bleed the feggin calliper without creating a near-reverse -vacuum on the tip of the nipple where you seat the tube for bleeding the bleeding feggin calliper !!!

Somewhere out there in google land are nitrile?? rubber seals for callipers, The difference being the ones I'm thinking of are GREEN in colour and have a better spec to the 'O' ring patent/copy black seals we usually get.....The OEM Kwacker seals are Dowty inc spec as in aviation/automotive/trains/ships,the green coloured O rings exceed the OEM specifications.


I have been there in spades. Good tip on checking the sealing surface internally for crud or buildup. I’ll keep that in mind. I’ve previously been advised that Teflon taping the nipple threads first will greatly benefit.

Any thoughts on using a vacuum type bleeder on say those ZX7 rear calipers? I’m still attempting to master vacuum bleeding. Eventually, I vacuum bled my RSVR front brake master cylinder “so well” that the brakes actually seized up in 1 kilometer. Apparently, there was so little air in the system that there was no room for expansion and slight brake drag was enough to heat up the fluid enough (I guess?) to cause the front brake to seize and it did so abruptly from 100 kph! The solution was to take two clicks out of the lever free play. I’d had it set to engage as far out as possible. Then I rode anxiously for a few hundred miles suspecting it would lock up again and pitch me second time round. The problem never resurfaced.


I was using a vacuum bleeder,it's the 7's calliper position...stand on your head job x 2 bleed nipples..even took the thing off and wedged a packer between the pads.

I would guess it's trapped air getting hot or the piston (s) are sticking...one good reason for buying some Dowty silicon graphite grease which is aviation spec (we also used it on high-pressure/load rams that hold up the roofs of coal mines) also it doesn't cook and glaze nor disappear with the rain/time...You'll need to google the Dowty grease I don't think anyone sells it on ebay it's around £15 for <30 grams and you put it on very sparingly..had the same little tub for 6/7 years now

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You take the blue pill—the story ends, you wake up in your bed and believe whatever you want to believe. You take the red pill—you stay in Wonderland, and I show you how deep the rabbit hole goes. Remember: all I'm offering is the truth.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 14, 2019 1:42 am 
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Talltom87 wrote:
curvecrazy wrote:
There’s oftentimes a screen in the tank on top the Petcock. Not sure about this one. There’s also the main fuel filter under the carb bank. It’s possible your fuel main has blockage issues. If in question, you should be able to turn off the fuel and remove the fuel hose. Put another hose on there to a bottle and turn it on and run a good gallon out. If it gurgles there blockage. I’d think you could blow compressed air through the rubber hose you attached backwards through the petcock to clear any gunk that’s in there. You could also fully remove the petcock after draining the tank but I’d be concerned with proper seal on reassembly.


I had cleaned that filter out recently, but if that was still blocked, it wouldn’t run at all. As no fuel would get to the carbs whatsoever, hence thinking it’s the fuel filters in the tank. It’s my birthday tomorrow, and I haven’t got chance to do owt today, or tomorrow. Unless I do it on my lunch break. Blow all the filters out and hope for the best! Haha, I might be lucky and get a new filter for my birthday!! Haha


The mesh on your's (Yorkies pic) looks finer than what I recall the one in the B to be :D Be ing :D a good thing as you should't be getting shite in the carbs

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