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PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2017 9:57 pm 
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WSB Rider
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Joined: Thu Sep 22, 2016 5:29 pm
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Location: Cambridgeshire. 2001 E1.
OK, so am making progress ... got engine out, and started to split crank cases (the lower is now loose) .. but decided to proceed with swapping the gear selector drum and selector forks before I separate the cases. I ran into an issue .. may be a simple answer .... the selector drum for the z1000 gearbox looks almost the same (slight difference in the profile of the grooves for the selector forks) ... but is majorly different at the end where it buts up against the neutral sensor. See pic below.... the upper drum is the z1000 and the lower drum is my original. Should I just re-use the original selector drum .. or does this difference suggest the z1000 gear set I have is the wrong set ? The difference is that on the original drum, theres the shiny part with black insulation which buts up against the neutral sensor, but on the z1000 one there is just a raised part which doesn't get anywhere near the neutral sensor.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 28, 2017 12:59 pm 
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WSB Rider
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Joined: Thu Sep 22, 2016 5:29 pm
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Location: Cambridgeshire. 2001 E1.
OK still hoping someone can give me some input as to whether or not I can use my original selector drum.

In the meantime, there seems to have been some confusion over output shaft length .. and for my E1 I can confirm the output shaft from the Z1000 gearbox I bought (2008 model) IS TOO LONG. So I've ordered new circlips and plan to switch all the gears from the new shaft onto my original.

I reckon the old selector drum should work ... all the track which move the selector forks appear to move from left to right the same distances on both drums, there's just a different profile of the tracks as they swing from left to right. Am still a little worried though :-(

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 28, 2017 1:43 pm 
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Ninja Guru
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Look at the fiches Polly, the bit on the end that's missing on the Z1000 drum is called a 'Holder' and is detachable so should swap between the two drums. Seeing as they both use the same neutral-switch maybe this 'holder' is integral with the cover on a Z1000.

As for the output-shaft i thought it was stated it fitted with the deeper sprocket-cover on an E-model :-k


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 28, 2017 2:31 pm 
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WSB Rider
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Joined: Thu Sep 22, 2016 5:29 pm
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Location: Cambridgeshire. 2001 E1.
Fatherdougal - by George you're right ... checked out cradley Kawasaki fiches and that neutral ring should detach... much happier now. =D>

As for the shaft length .. am not really sure ... all I know is the new one is longer (will post up piccs later of the shafts and the process of swapping the gears). Am hoping the new circlips will arrive tomorrow so I can crack on.

Many many thanks. Have a virtual beer on me .. and a real one if we ever get to meet up (after all my surgery is sorted of course).

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 28, 2017 2:42 pm 
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WSB Rider
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Joined: Thu Sep 22, 2016 5:29 pm
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Location: Cambridgeshire. 2001 E1.
Just to add ... re-examined the shift drum (old one) ... that part 13091 listed as holder on the fiche ...... it's absolutely stuck on .. which is why I thought it was part of the drum itself. Not sure how to get it off at present ... going to try some sort of puller or something. There's not much of a flange on the inner edge to get a grip of. This is going to be fun.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 28, 2017 6:34 pm 
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WSB Rider
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Location: Cambridgeshire. 2001 E1.
OK, so that shift drum part is not willing to move - and worse, I can't see how it will fit on the new drum. I've been comparing the parts listing on cradley for various years of Z1000 and the shift drum from 2003 to 2007 looks same (from a neutral switch perspective) as the ZX9. However from 2008 onwards, it's different and clearly from 2008 the drum is incompatible with the ZX9 neutral switch.

Therefore I'm left with the conundrum - will a ZX9 shift drum drive a 2008 Z1000 gearbox.... now the good news is that I compared part numbers between 2003 to 2007 Z1000 input and output shafts with the 2008 Z1000 parts listing (I checked each cog / component) and they all look the same. So if a Z1000 groove profile IS the same as a zx9 (which I don't know) then it should work, in theory.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 28, 2017 6:40 pm 
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WSB Rider
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Joined: Thu Sep 22, 2016 5:29 pm
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Location: Cambridgeshire. 2001 E1.
Actually correction to the above .. I was comparing the wrong browser windows ... 2008 output shaft part numbers are different than 2003. Nuts.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 28, 2017 9:15 pm 
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WSB Rider
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Location: pickering north yorkshire 2002 zx9r e2
i thought z1000 shaft was the same as e models but was longer than the c model shaft but don't know what year z1000 gearboxes


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 28, 2017 9:59 pm 
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WSB Rider
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Joined: Thu Sep 22, 2016 5:29 pm
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Location: Cambridgeshire. 2001 E1.
Yes it's deffo longer. So seeing as this post is in Howto section I'll post what I now know, having had a really useful PM reply from fastbikemaniac plus from what I've gleaned from the fiches;

1) If you get hold of an 03-06 Z1000 gearbox, you should be able to use the input shaft, selector drum and selector forks from the Z1000 and swap the gears from the Z1000 output shaft onto the original output shaft and then fit the original output shaft with all the new gears on it.

2) If you get a Z1000 both from an 07 thru 09 (I think 09, but definitely from 07) then you can use the input shaft, selector forks, BUT NOT the selector drum - retain your original selector drum. As with the above, swap the gears from the z1000 shaft to the original output shaft.

The above applies to E models only (that's all I know).

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PostPosted: Mon May 01, 2017 11:36 am 
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WSB Rider
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Joined: Thu Sep 22, 2016 5:29 pm
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Location: Cambridgeshire. 2001 E1.
Folks I need help ... I got everything back together and started the boke, bled coolant etc, then tried the gears with bike on paddock stands ... I can get 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th.... but no 5th or 6th. The lever just doesn't want to move up. The best I can manage to get is a false neutral just above 4th gear. Bit stuck now. Any smart ideas ? Feeling really depressed now given how much work this was for me given current condition. :-(

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PostPosted: Tue May 09, 2017 4:29 pm 
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WSB Rider
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Joined: Thu Sep 22, 2016 5:29 pm
Posts: 463
Location: Cambridgeshire. 2001 E1.
OK so final post on this topic from me. My issue above was caused by me putting the forward selector fork in the wrong way around #-o removed engine again, removed sump, saw error, swapped it around, assembled and now all good.
I have done around 350 miles now since changing the gearbox. Everything is so much better. No drop outs, or false neutrals. All changes are smoother and changing down and finding neutral when coming to a standstill is much much easier. Probably the best bit of work I've done to the bike.

Here are my notes on doing this for anyone else wanting to do it;

1) You don't have to removal the alternator flywheel or oil / water pump, although the oil pump drive does make it a little more difficult to get some of the shift mech out. It is also not necessary to remove the timing rotor - but you do have to remove the pickup coil.

2) Undo the clutch centre bolt before removing the engine.

3) Despite draining oil, it will still spill engine over the floor when you remove it from the frame, unless you put the sump plug back in .. within I didn't do - deliberately to avoid any undue weight on the sump plug bolt.

4) Make sure gearbox is in neutral before removing the generator cover and wiring loom, including the neutral light connector.

5) Apart from the above, do all the removal and crank splitting as per manual (Haynes or workshop).

6) Order replacement circlips for the output shaft ... you'll probably have to swap the new gears from the Z1000 shaft onto your old output shaft). Get very good circlip pliers .. the clips on these are a complete arse to move without distorting them.

7) If you like peace of mind, order new output shaft and gear change shaft oil seals - and fit these after you re-join the crankcases. Also order new clutch, alternator and sump gaskets if you are worried about leaks. I got away with just sump, but my alternator gasket was in a bit of a state and I'll be replacing it next time I change oil. Also make sure you have a good bonding agent to use on the crankcase. I used the 3 Bond stuff recommened to me on here ... it is good stuff.

8) During the work to swap the gears from new output shaft onto the original, ignore what the manuals say about not using grease to keep the 3 steel balls in place - use as light a grease as you have available and assemble (the grease really helps), then use brake cleaner or something similar to get ALL THE GREASE OUT... otherwise, as the manual says, there will be issues with false neutral prevention.

9) Find a way to prevent bits of dirt and old gasket getting into the crank (I failed - and it takes bloody ages to fish bits out) ... when cleaning the mating surfaces little bits of crud get everywhere.

10) Recommend using paddock stands, once finished, to run engine up and run thru gears. For some reason my bike snatches the chain a lot when I put it in gear on paddock stands - so I purposely adjusted the chain to be tighter than normal, just for the test run on paddock stands.

11) Pay attention when doing the gearbox swap - especially to the position of the selector forks - I got one of mine the wrong way around. If you have a Z1000 box from 2007 on, chances are the selector drum won't fit (wrong neutral indicator mechanism), don't worry, use your old drum (if it's in good condition).

Ride gently on first test ride, check the gears carefully, cross your fingers, toes & knob .. if you're lucky and haven't made any mistakes dumber than me, then the box should work a treat :-)

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PostPosted: Tue May 09, 2017 5:42 pm 
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Ninja Guru
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Well done Polly, doddle eh? =D>


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PostPosted: Tue May 09, 2017 6:09 pm 
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WSB Rider
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Joined: Sun Nov 23, 2014 8:26 pm
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Location: pickering north yorkshire 2002 zx9r e2
=D> =D> well done glad its all sorted


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PostPosted: Tue May 09, 2017 6:24 pm 
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WSB Rider
WSB Rider

Joined: Thu Sep 22, 2016 5:29 pm
Posts: 463
Location: Cambridgeshire. 2001 E1.
Thanks both .. wouldn't say it's a doodle, but once I got the engine out, it all became so much easier to work out. Couldn't have done it without you all :-)

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 17, 2017 1:35 am 
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WSB Rider
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Joined: Mon May 13, 2013 2:57 am
Posts: 430
Location: Nova Scotia. 2000 E1
Had it with no 3rd, and always trying to remember what gear I'm in, so just ordered an '03 Z1000 gearset off ebay for my old bomb. Guess now I'll sell the c model set I got last time instead of the F set I ordered. Since it didn't cost me anything (ebay refunded my money 8) ) it's going cheap to anyone here who wants to chance it...

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